Oleander isn’t naturally winter-hardy, which means we have to give it a little extra TLC to get it through the cold months safely. To keep your plant happy until spring, you’ll need a frost-proof spot and a solid winter care routine. Here’s the lowdown on how to protect your Mediterranean beauty.
Oleander and Freezing Temps
Since Oleander hails from the warm Mediterranean, it’s used to mild, breezy winters. It really can’t handle the cold; once temperatures dip to about 23°F (-5°C), you’re looking at permanent frost damage. To keep that from happening, you’ll want to get your Oleander tucked away before the first big freeze hits.
Choosing Your Winter Strategy
There are a couple of ways to see your Oleander through to spring:
- The gold standard: Moving it into a dedicated indoor winter shelter.
- The “plan B”: Keeping it outdoors with heavy-duty protection (only recommended in specific cases).
The Ideal Winter Home
If you’re moving your plant inside, the perfect spot should be dry, frost-free, and cool. Aim for a consistent temperature of around 40°F (5°C). This keeps the plant dormant without letting it freeze.
Can You Leave Oleander Outside?
If you live somewhere with very mild winters, you might consider overwintering outdoors. However, you can’t just leave it sitting there—you’ve got to gear up with some serious protection.
Find a sheltered nook, ideally right up against a house wall and under a roof overhang. Set the pot on a thick piece of Styrofoam or wood to insulate the roots from the cold ground. Wrap the entire plant in bubble wrap, and give the pot an extra layer of protection with specialized garden fleece or burlap. Just a heads-up: this is risky! Oleanders are very prone to frostbite, so only try this if your local winters stay pretty tame.
One big tip: Only water your plant on days when it’s above freezing. If you water during a freeze, the water will just turn to ice before it ever reaches the roots.
Winter Maintenance and Care
Even though your Oleander is “resting,” it still needs a bit of water. You won’t need to pull out the watering can nearly as often as you do in the summer, though—usually, once a month is plenty to keep the root ball from drying out completely.
While your plant is in storage, keep a close eye on it for pests or fungal infections. Watch out specifically for “dry rot”—if you see leaves and shoots turning brown and brittle, that’s a classic sign that often pops up during or right after the winter break.
