The U-shape is a classic style of cordon training that’s a total game-changer for apples and pears, though it works great for other fruit types too. While it takes about a year longer to establish than a basic single cordon, it’s well worth the wait. By splitting the tree’s energy into two separate vertical “arms,” you’re actually making your life easier down the road because the tree requires much less pruning once it’s established.
Step-by-Step Guide
- Start with one-year-old grafted fruit trees on semi-dwarf rootstock.
- After planting, head the tree back to about 16 inches (40 cm) high, cutting just above two healthy buds. Make sure these buds are facing outward toward your trellis wires to make training easier.
- Once those two buds sprout and grow, tie the new shoots to your support frame at a 45-degree angle.
- Keep things tidy by pinching off any other competing shoots for now.
- Around early August—before the wood gets too stiff—gently bend those shoots into a horizontal position.
- Secure the shoots to the frame just before the bend.
- Don’t be afraid to make small adjustments later if the shape isn’t looking perfectly symmetrical yet.
Pro Tips for Success
- If the shoots have already started to harden, give them a very slight twist as you bend them; this helps prevent them from snapping.
- Aim for a distance of about 16 inches (40 cm) between the two vertical cordons.
- Balance is key! Always prune the tips of the cordons so they stay at the exact same height. If one side is growing slower, prune the stronger side down to match it.
Maintenance in the Following Years
- In the coming seasons, you’ll continue to extend the main vertical stems and develop the “fruiting wood” (the small branches that actually grow the fruit).
- Aim to keep your side shoots between 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) long.
The Two-Year Pruning Method
To encourage short, productive fruiting spurs, many gardeners swear by the “two-year cut” alongside regular pinching. Here’s the trick: prune back to an upward-facing bud. In the second year, prune that branch back again to a weaker, downward-facing shoot. This slows the growth down and encourages the tree to produce fruit instead of just leaves.
The Double U-Shape
If you’re feeling ambitious, the Double U-shape is a stunning ornamental choice, though it takes 2 to 3 years to get the structure right. It’s most popular for apples and pears, but sweet cherries and some plums look great this way too.
The main difference here is that you start your first split lower down (around 15-20 inches). You can even use specialized training frames to help guide the growth. Just a heads-up: make sure the first “bend” transitions smoothly into the vertical base of the U. It’s almost impossible to fix a crooked frame later on! Once the skeleton is set, you just follow the same pruning rules as the standard U-shape.